The Humble Hallmark

If you regularly wear gold or sterling silver jewellery, you may have noticed the ‘hallmark’ adorning the inside of your rings or bangles, or the clasp of your necklace. If so, you will also probably know it details the type of precious metal an item is made of. But the hallmark also provides other key information about your treasured items, and most importantly that it’s definitely the real deal.

What is a hallmark?

Hallmarking is proof of the quality and purity of precious metal used to make a piece of jewellery. Any jewellery sold in the UK which is described as gold, silver, platinum, or palladium must have a UK recognised hallmark if over a certain weight. This applies to silver jewellery over 7.78g in weight, gold and palladium over 1g, and platinum over 0.5g.

A UK hallmark must consist of three marks: the sponsor’s mark (the company who submitted the item for hallmarking), a fineness mark (precious metal content), and the assay office mark (London, Birmingham, Sheffield or Edinburgh in the UK). There are other optional marks which may be included.

Hallmarking is permanent validation of an item’s precious metal content and protects consumers from counterfeit or poor-quality goods. However, jewellery made before 1950 and described as precious metal can be sold without a hallmark, as long as proof of purity is provided.

The history of hallmarking

Hallmarking in the UK began over 700 years ago and originated in the Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office in London. In 1300, Edward I passed a stature that silver had to be of sterling standard (92.5%) and gold should have the ‘touch of Paris’ (19.2 carats). His ‘Guardians of the craft’ were tasked with applying the leopard’s head mark to work in silver or gold which met the standard.

The ‘maker’s mark’ to identify the goldsmith was introduced in 1363, and was used alongside the leopard’s head. In 1478, a date letter was also introduced and changed each year. Goldsmiths’ Hall also became the home of a permanent assay office and it’s believed this is where the term ‘hallmark’ came from.

Other notable dates are 1757, when counterfeiting hallmarks became punishable by death, and 1773, when both the Sheffield and Birmingham assay offices opened. In 1855, it became a legal requirement for gold wedding rings to be hallmarked. 

Over the past 700 years, the purity requirements for precious metals have fluctuated. However, the 92.5% sterling silver standard has remained in place since it was reintroduced in 1720. Prior gold purity standards have included 12 and 15 carat, but now consists of 9, 14, 18, 22, and 24 carat, each with their own distinguishing mark. Platinum and palladium are fairly new to the ‘must have’ hallmark club, with platinum joining in 1975 and palladium only becoming compulsory in 2010. 

Since its origin, the hallmark’s structure has evolved to ultimately settle on the version we are used to seeing today. There have been special hallmarks to commemorate the coronations of Queen Elizabeth II and King Charles III, as well as the Queen’s Royal Jubilees and the millennium.

How is an item hallmarked?

To sell precious metal in the UK (which is over a specified weight) it must be hallmarked. To enable jewellers to get their products hallmarked, they can register with at least one of the four assay offices in the UK and choose a sponsor’s mark. This is made up of two to five letters and is unique to the maker.

When registering for a hallmark, jewellers often use their initials or the first few letters of the business name, depending on availability. Imagine my excitement when I realised that I could have three letters and ‘WOO’ was still available! 

Hallmarks can be applied with a traditional metal punch, or using a laser. Jewellers may need to purchase different shaped and sized punches depending on the type of jewellery they make. Lasering is the perfect option for ‘WOO’ hallmarks due to its versatility. As a bespoke jeweller, I make a range of jewellery styles of varying intricacy and laser hallmarks offer the most flexibility for my designs.

When an item is ready to be submitted for marking, the maker will complete a form detailing all the appropriate information required and present this with the item. Jewellery made from more than one precious metal can have multiple metal marks added.

Jewellery items can be sent via post to the assay office, or hand delivered. The assay office will then assess and validate the item to ensure it is authentic before adding the hallmark.

Whilst hallmarking is a legal requirement, and therefore an important part of the overall process, it also verifies a finished item’s value to the wearer. Precious metal has long been chosen as a base for jewellery because of its worth, and the hallmark is confirmation and reassurance of quality and also long-term investment.

Source – Assay Office London